MARTA MARTINO for RIVEN MAGAZINE
Sometimes it happens to ask myself if in this world there’re still chances to be a good designer. We live in the street-wear Era, where everybody dress up randomly following the bulk of trends that continuously change and have its own icons on web phenomenons, it- girls or fashion bloggers. It makes me wonder if it’s possible for a brand that has different standards, different approach on designing clothes (which are pretty far from street wear) to dictate trends as it happened in past. Before fashion became a fast-food restaurant, there’re were few people, few genius indeed, that had skills and elegance to teach us what to wear, to revolutionize our point of view and to decide what we would wear for the next seasons. Obviously it can’t be like this nowadays. At the moment, fashion is too fast. But at least there’s still somebody out there that have those skills and elegance. As Marta, the designer we decided to interview about her job. Her attention on garments she designs is absolute. Fabrics, shapes, seams, everything is made in Italy, close to her ideas, and made with care and passion. For these reasons, and for many others we’re going to read, her clothes are unique.
R: Could you spot the moment in which you understood you wanted to become a designer? Has it been a kind of literary epiphany or you’ve always been conscious of it?
M: I’ve always drawn a lot, but I’ve never thought fashion could be a kinda job for me, actually… When I was a child I used to play with little pieces of fabric I found here and there or with my mum’s clothes, but I think it’s something every little girl does. Basically the creative world is the place in which I’ve always moved comfortably and easily. Then life push me to flow all this creativity in design.
R: What’s the stady point distinguishing your collections, the feature that makes your brand knowable, the one you can’t help involving despite your different inspirations?
M:There are several distinguishing elements in my collection, some of them pretty evident: one is absolutely a kind of “masculine strength” that people can feel also on feminine garments, then the use (or abuse maybe) of Black and Nude colors, or different plissé fabrics that continuously transform in every collection.
R: Regarding this collection, RIOT. I find your clothings were perfectly placed in the photographic series. A sort of classy aesthetic, but also an incredibly contemporary and visionary one. All is acted by the model in a simple, genuine way, without posing too much. How does the photographic project was born and what do you think about the result?
M: The photographic project was born from a will of experimenting. I don’t like classical aesthetic, I prefer to challenge it rather than pander it. The RIOT imaginary is the result of a precious encounter with Andrea Maino, the photographer we’ve recently started to work with. We immediately had a great understanding with him. Deborah Parcesepe is the face we decided to combine with and she really embodies our brand, giving a big strength to what she wears.
R: Tell me if I’m wrong, but I perceive an almost grungy attitude on the images approach, that sort of 90’s generation spirit with all the weaknesses, melancholy and social pressure it owned. Besides I came across the Aaron Rose’s quote on your website referring to his manifesto, dated ’95. So, tell us something about you as teenager and why you chose Aaron Rose?
M: About Marta as a teenager it’s better to do not talk, maybe (joking). Obviously everything you can see in collections is affected by my story. Teenage is a final moment and it leaves its own marks in each one of us. I don’t deny my past, that’s always being a matter of experimenting, somehow. I’ve always breathed creativity even without knowing it: music, painting, architecture. Generally speaking, my senses have always been receptive so to shape a personal creativity that had its turning point during adolescence, of course. Basically I find the Alleged manifesto wrote by Aaron Rose really topical and close to our project.
R: What’s the role of the external world in your creative process? Is there a reason why you chose to live in Italy and to continue working in a little city in the north?
M: I think suburb has a big value.It leaves your mind pretty free, far from mainstream approval. However I love traveling, mostly alone, as I also love to be back home where I feel my balance strong.
R: Let’s talk about the future. Next projects and aims…
M: Future to me will be always focused on creativity and on training it in different fields. It’s a year I started to draw jewellery for an important company in Vicenza. MM could start to spread in other areas, in little time but right now what’s important for us is to communicate our world, above all on the web, and we’re now working on our e-commerce section you’ll find on our website soon: www.martamartino.com
Written by RIVEN Magazine
Photography: Andrea Maino
Model: Deborah Parcesepe